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"For Benoît Gallot, Pére Lachaise is best explored without a guide: You're guaranteed to lose your way. You'll feel as though you've stepped out of time, out of Paris, and into another place entirely. In his debut memoir, Gallot, head curator of Pére Lachaise and son of a grave stonemason, pulls back the curtains on his otherworldly workplace--a cemetery crammed with tourists in the high season and mourners year round, but also a natural paradise,...